Sans, Spring/Summer 2008

Sans, SS08, Photograph Sarah Scaturro

Sustainable fashion in New York seems to be finally gaining momentum. One of the more interesting developments is still provided by Sans—the design duo comprised of Lika Volkova and Alessandro de Vito.

Their most recent collection continues an exploration of themes of utilitarian modular clothing paired this time with a clinical (yet at times ironic) aesthetic. A see-through theme is articulated via sheer materials and slashed garments. Particularly interesting was their use of oversized pockets, as well as their precisely tailored pants. What’s impressive about Sans is the fact that they are not only one of a still-small crop (comparatively to Europe) of New York designers working towards sustainable fashion, but they are also among the few to produce experimental design within the city’s rather conservative fashion climate.

Francesca

Angel Chang Spring 2008

I have mixed feelings about Angel Chang’s Spring 2008 collection. From a technological standpoint, her third attempt to explore “bleeding-edge trends in fashion and technology” was a step back from her first two collections (Spring and Fall 2007).

Her most recent collection showcased shiny fabrics, soft colors, and a nice mix of structured/fluid silhouettes – but little else. Yes, there was the random thermochromic printed textile, as well as some use of innovative fabrics like X-static (with anti-microbial characteristics), but it appeared that Chang’s investigation into technological fashion stopped there. I was disappointed that one of the few emerging designers out there willing to tackle the question of how to make technological clothes actually fashionable was, in a sense, veering away from the very quality that made her so unique. Her designs, while not especially significant, are the kinds of garments that an urban woman would like to wear – functional, utilitarian, and pretty. A 2007 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner, Chang from the get-go had credibility in the fashion world, thanks to her previous work at Donna Karan and other fashion houses and magazines. Because she herself does not construct technological components, nor develop the cutting edge techniques she employs in her designs (unlike the designer Despina Papadopolous of Studio 5050 who can both engineer circuits and design the end-use garment), Chang must rely on partnerships with technological designers, such as Sonali Sridhar and Mouna Andraos, the pair behind her thermochromic textiles. Perhaps Chang has finally realized that, although there MUST be more to technological fashion than Ipod docks, blinking lights, and disappearing inks - it’s pretty hard to figure out what else is out there, and even harder to find someone who can replicate it. Even though I was disappointed with Chang’s halted explorations into technological fashion, I was satisfied to see that Chang is still exploring militaristic themes. Her continued use of patterns with guns, camouflage, airplanes, etc speaks to the larger philosophical issue of the role technology plays in society, especially with regards to warfare. Overall, I think that Angel Chang’s work is commendable for its effort and scope. Perhaps it’s unfair to expect technological advancement with every fashion season.  Although, shouldn’t fashion -  especially "fast" fashion -  be able to keep up with the rapid change that is occurring every day within the technology industry?

Sarah Scaturro

Mary Ping, Spring/Summer 2008

Mary Ping’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection was quietly beautiful and suggests that the short decampment to Paris was beneficial to the designer. Slightly more feminine than her previous work, it showed a number of dresses and circle skirts which conveyed an easy yet researched chic. (Particularly ingenious design-wise were her dual color dresses.)

Yet her conceptual side, which she indulges in with her Slow and Steady Line, was still present, particularly in the details. A beautiful interlaced back and a strategically-placed cut-out explored new erogenous zones, such as the collarbones or the lower ribcage, engaging the viewer in a game of hide and seek, which, combined with a certain primness (underscored by the über-nerdy Sol Moscot eyeglasses), brings forth a more cerebral kind of feminine beauty. Her work conveys a sensuality which is carefully articulated and perhaps even slightly repressed and thus all the more intriguing. Ultimately, it constitutes a respite from the overly trendy and/or overtly sexy clothes out there.

Francesca

Slow and Steady Wins the Race Pop-up Store

Slow and Steady, Designer Underwear after Calvin Klein

Slow and Steady Wins the Race is celebrating its 5 Year Anniversary with a Pop Up Store which will stay open from Sept 8th until Sept 15th at the Sol Moscot shop in the Lower East Side (on 118 Orchard Street). Recently shown at the V&A in Sonnet Stanfill’s exhibit New York Fashion Now, the experimental line’s investigation of the vocabulary of fashion, branding and consumer desire is increasingly relevant, as these issues become more widely discussed. (See, for instance, Holly Bruback’s article in the current issue of the New York Times T Magazine and Caroline Weber’s review of Dana Thomas’ book Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster in the Times.)

Modabot: Internet Fashion Week

I have been meaning to write about Modabot for quite some time, as I find it one of the most interesting fashion sites out there. The Berlin-based website primarily covers topics in that slippery area known as “avant-garde fashion” in an intelligent yet unpretentious manner. The fact that it’s written in German—a language that doesn't come easy to me, despite having briefly lived there—makes it hard for me to give a full assesment! Though what I do know is that they recently interviewed Giana González of Hacking Couture, and they are introducing an internet fashion week concomitantly with Berlin fashion Week in July.Francesca